Festival Time

Timket is one of the biggest festivals in Ethiopia. It's a 3-day

event, centered on January 19 (January 11 on the Ethiopian calendar,

where it's also 2003--don't ask). So of course, we needed to include

it in our plan.

The occasion is comparable to Epiphany in the Roman Christian calendar

(January 12th), but instead of celebrating the arrival of the three

kings, it celebrates the baptism of Christ, complete with re-enactment

and sprinking of water on the devoted assembled.

The celebration includes three phases--the procession, bringing the

Ark of the Covenant (a replica of the 10 commandments) from each of

the 44 churches to a central point in Addis; a huge open air mass the

next day; and a reverse procession, taking the Arks back to the

individual churches.

We rode back to Addis on Tuesday, arrived in time to view the start of

the celebration. This includes processions from various corners of

the city, with people from each of the churches (Sunday school

classes, all in their matching dress; choral groups singing and

dancing, women along the roadside ululating, which I think is the

right word--a unique high-pitched sound repeatedly involving the

letter "l" that have only heard on African cd's), the priests ahead of

the Ark itself, which is "protected" by colorful umbrellas held above

it. Truly a unique and memorable sight.

The processions came from four directions, each coming into a circle

and then processing up to a huge hope field. The Arks then are

"guarded" overnight by the assembled priests.

At dawn the next morning, mass begins. We arrived shortly after dawn

and watched as people streamed in from all different directions,

joining many who had been their overnight. Many dressed in beautiful

religious finery, others just in finery, others just regular clothes.

Clearly evident that for many, this was a deeply moving religious

experience, one shared with family and friends.

Many of the churches had set up booths, complete with benches, where

their parishoners could rest. But the action was clearly out in the

open, as the sun rose higher, the day got warmer, and the religious

fervor increased. All watched over by soldiers with guns, standing

high above the festival grounds. We all had been patted down upon

entering, police on horses throughout--kind of took the edge off of

things.

Left just prior to the culminating event, had lunch, then rode back to

Debre Birhan. Along the way, encountered several other processions in

the small towns/villages we passed through.. Universal feelings of

happiness, joy, and religious fervor.

Couldn't help but think there is no such unifying experience for us in

the States.

Yesterday (Thursday) was the third day, a huge mass honoring St.

Michael, named because of the first miracle of changing water into

wine. Many of our family members were at the mass, so while we worked

the full day, we mostly had the work site to ourselves.

This was one of those experiences that make my trips so memorable for

me--the opportunity to see "real" people, gathered together, taking

part in something that I simply otherwise would not only not see, but

wouldn't even know about. What a pleasure it is to be able to do

this.

Back to work, now--festival time is officially over for Ethiopians as

well as us.