The contrast is startling. Expected, but startling nonetheless. Pokhara is in a valley, with mountains visible around it, and along side a lake. The valley itself is richly green, broken down into postage stamp plots (I figure each about the size of a single car garage), neatly terraced, where individuals grow rice, corn or wheat. Very green, very flat, very fertile.
Pokhara itself is the 2nd largest city, population variously estimated at 200,000-300,000. We're in the tourist section, which looks quite different--jammed with hotels, restaurants, internet cafes, and shops doing laundry. The rest of the city looks little different from Kathmandu, though smaller.
Woke up pre-dawn (sunrise is a little after 5:00) to the sounds of birds singing instead of dogs fighting. And to the non-sound of horns not tooting. And to the wonderful sound of some monks chanting in a monastery in the distance. Took a short walk down to the lake, watching as the city slowly awakened and came to life.
Off to the build site after breakfast---everyone on time, even the two who had been late before ("we were here before anyone else" she said brightly). About 20 minutes to the edge of town, beginnings of the hills, up incredible roads. But a beautiful land site--valley below, mountains all around, river running through a deep canyon.
We're building two houses. One is for a woman and her four children. The foundation has been put in, though our first task was to modify it a little because it was too close to the "road." It is a one room house, about 10x12 total. Door, window. And it will be all hers (and her kids). She currently lives next door in a rented house, mud walls and floor. This will be much more healthful. [My last office at Ursinus was 10x12. I never held meetings in there for more than two others. I certainly didn't try and live there with four others. Size is relative and contextual.]
The second house is sort of a duplex--two sisters will live there, each with their family, a total of 7 people. This one is noticeably larger--12x30. Smaller than a 2-car garage, though. Foundation also laid, ready for block work.
After pleasantries and welcome, divide into groups. First problem: "I don't have gloves." (Nariyan to me: "Did you tell them to bring gloves?" "Yes. But some pride themselve on only reading essential things. This wasn't one.") So off Nariyan and I go, back to the city, in search of gloves. Meanwhile, the others got to work.
Found some great leather gloves (one size) for $1.40 a pair. Bought 12 pairs. Also looked for some more shovels, but couldn't find any. Then the search for cartons of bottled water. The strike last week disrupted the whole supply chain in the country. Stopped at 5 places before finally finding one that had water for us. But we found it.
Back to the jobsite, just in time for lunch at a local restaurant (the only restaurant actually). Very Nepali, and good. And the feel of being there couldn't be better. Walked around the little crossroads gathering a bit after lunch--the local barber shop, then past the elementary school. Kids were just getting dismissed for lunch. I've never been a chick magnet (not sure I even would want to be) but in this setting, I'm a kid magnet. (Full disclosure: I had my camera.) Great fun talking a little with the kids, all of whom are much older than I think, but because they are so much smaller than American kids, I get confused.
More block passing in the afternoon--the block is delivered one place, then has to be transported by pack mule (us) to the jobsite because vehicles can't get across the fields. So we moved block all day. On a beautifu sunny day, warm (80's), mountains in the background, green lush fertile fields.
We're all in a line, passing blocks from one to another. Several local women watching us. After a little bit, one comes and adds to the line. Then after a little bit, another one. And eventually, a third. Building community.
Dinner together, at yet another Pokhara restaurant. Also with a cultural show. Noisy show, not very interesting. Food mediocre, too. But it was an event. We will now have some dinners on our own, at restaurants of our individual choosing.
2nd day, on the way to the build site, we stop to get some tools. One of our team members, a contractor himself, had identified a few needs. So we bought a couple of shovels, a long level, a pick axe handle, a couple of plumbs, and a ball of string. Total cost: less than $20. Home Depot couldn't touch one shovel for that price.
More block passing, but a few also started block laying on the smaller house. Great to see that the construction supervisor was happy to teach us how he wanted it done. A challenge, I'm sure, but he's good at it.
During lunch, another delivery of 200 blocks. (Fiscal stimulus program? Or simply a full employment guarantee?) More block passing across the fields, including several trying the Nepali way---loaded on your back, using a burlap sling. Homeowner loaded three on her back, then patiently tried to teach three others how to load two others on their back, all the while holding the three on her back. Then she took off for the site. Her strength and endurance far surpass anything any of us have.
And then, having transferred the block for the day (the 200 are tomorrow's project--they're too wet for today) we get involved in laying some block ourselves. Pleased to see my hands remember the task quite quickly. Got to do a little before rain came, and we decided to call it a day before the rain really came.
I've long heard the term "working poor." We were talking the other day about how privileged we felt to be able to afford this kind of thing--both the money and the time. A team member said she considered herself part of the "working rich"--able to afford this sort of thing as long as she keeps working. I like the term. (Except what does that make me--the non-working rich? Disturbing thought.).
The plan is to finish these two houses, and if time, to build a bathroom (shared latrine actually.) If this happens, it will my first experience of actually building a house from (virtually) start to finish. We'll see. But I do know we will have built community.
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